Teutonic T-Bird - 1962 Auto Union 1000 SP
Who would've expected an Auto Union at Hershey?
09/23/2018
Recent
Photo: Courtesy of Artcurial
Launched in 1969, the unit-body 404 was in some ways an updated version of the previous family car, the 403, although the two would be produced side-by-side for six years. Derived from the 403’s engine, the 404’s alloy-head, wet-liner XC four featured three main bearings and an oversquare 84 mm x 73 mm bore and stroke. Breathing through a one-barrel Solex carburetor, the four was rated at 72 horsepower, enough to push the boxy sedan through the air at 88 mph. The engine was canted over at 45 degrees, allowing for a lower hood line. The drivetrain employed a four-speed manual transmission, and torque-tube drive to the rear axle.
Photo: Courtesy of Artcurial
For the passengers, there were pillowy seats in the French tradition, upholstered in cloth or vinyl. The driver got no tachometer, but could gaze upon a 160-kph speedometer, gauges for gas level and engine temperature, an ammeter, and a trip odometer while gripping the big, plastic steering wheel. Gear changes were accomplished with a lever on the column.
Conservative Peugeot took a slow but steady approach to developing the 404. In 1961, it added an upmarket convertible version, sending basic platforms to Pininfarina's factory in Grugliasco, a suburb of Turin, for the construction of the bodies and interiors. An 85-hp injected version of the four, equipped with a Kugelfischer mechanical pump, was developed for the Cabriolet, but was also made available for the sedan.
1962 saw the introduction of a strikingly handsome coupe version, also designed and constructed by Pininfarina. A station wagon variant, with a longer wheelbase and redesigned rear suspension, arrived in 1963, followed by the introduction of an 86-hp, 1,948-cc diesel four in 1964. A diesel 404 Cabriolet converted into a single-seater hardtop captured 40 international speed and distance records at Montlhéry the following year.
Photo: Courtesy of Artcurial
Demand was sufficient to keep the 404 in production through 1975, with regular improvements in horsepower, efficiency, and braking performance. The range was rounded out with the launch of a pickup version in 1967. Peugeot made an effort to sell the 404 to Americans, especially during the early 1960s, taking out full-page ads in Road & Track and other enthusiast magazines. When R&T publisher John R. Bond called the Peugeot "one of the seven best made cars in the world," it was a compliment the manufacturer delighted in repeating.
Bond wasn't alone. The motoring press generally liked the 404, praising its combination of restrained good looks, first-rate build quality, noise isolation, assured handling, and willing engine. Bill Boddy, reviewing the 404 for the British magazine The Motor, called it "generally a splendid car, offering exceptional value for money," calling particular attention to its practicality, ruggedness, and excellent finish. It was the 404 that helped cement Peugeot's reputation for durability through rallying, with four wins in the East Africa Safari Rally alone.
Photo: Courtesy of Artcurial
Peugeot's French production run of 1,847,568 404s ended in 1975. A total of 2,885,374 units had been produced worldwide at the end of production. Mike Tippett, who administers a global registry for Le Club 404, estimates that about 29,000 404s came to the U.S., and another 12,000 to Canada. Just over 4,000 vehicles worldwide are accounted for in the registry.
NADA/J.D. Power shows an average market value of $4,375 for the sedan, while three 404s—body style unspecified, but probably coupes or convertibles—have been listed for sale on Hemmings.com over the past three years, with asking prices of $13,900 to $20,000. The carbureted example shown here was sold for the equivalent of $19,500 by French auction house Artcurial in November 2021.
Specifications - Peugeot 404*
Photo: Courtesy of Artcurial
Engine: OHV inline-four, 1,618 cc (98.7-cu.in.), single Solex downdraft carburetor; 76 hp at 5,500 rpm, 96 lb-ft at 2,500 rpm
Transmission: Four-speed manual/three-speed ZF automatic
Suspension: Front - MacPherson struts, single lower wishbones; Rear - rigid axle with coil springs and stabilizer bar
Brakes: Four-wheel drum
Wheelbase: 104.3 inches
Curb weight: 2,480 pounds
Price new: $2,575-$2,699
Value today: $7,300-$17,500**
*Figures are for a 1965-’66 404 sedan with a carbureted engine.
**Source: Classic Data GMBH
Photo: Christian Hazel
Pre-Start Oil, Fluids and Lube Check
It’s often overlooked, but since the transfer case is always spinning when driving in two- or four-wheel drive, make sure the fluid is at the appropriate level before driving off.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Most of us are at least going to pull the engine oil dipstick to check the level, condition, and smell of the engine oil. If white, tan, or foamy, that indicates water or coolant in the crankcase. Grit or excessive fuel smell are equally bad. Many automatic transmissions require the engine to be running for proper oil level indication and manual transmissions are frequently checked by removing a fill plug on the side of the tranny case. Don’t forget to pop the radiator cap (with the engine cool) to make sure the level is correct, and you’ll want to verify the transfer case fluid level, which is done most often by removing a fill plug and visually or with a finger checking the fluid level. Most cast-iron transfer cases use 90W gear oil and many aluminum units use automatic transmission fluid. If the vehicle you’re looking to buy has a full-time transfer case, it may or may not have fluid requirements with specialty additives, so you should check ahead of time when going to pick up your vehicle. Finally, make sure you pop a fill plug in the rear axle to make sure the diff isn’t dry and do the same for the front if the vehicle doesn’t have locking hubs or other means to ensure the front differential and axles won’t be spinning when going down the road.
Steering Box Safety Inspection
Loose steering box mounting bolts are unfortunately a common malady in many used 4x4 vehicles, so make sure the mounting bolts that hold the box to the frame are tight.
Photo: Christian Hazel
It's likely that you will pop the steering reservoir open to check fluid level if the vehicle has power steering and check the pressure and return line for any major cracks or damage. Now is the time to bust out that set of hand tools you brought with you (you did bring them, right?) and put a wrench or socket on the bolts that hold the steering box to the frame mount. You’d be surprised how many decent looking 4x4s we’ve gone to drag home that had loose bolts at this most critical safety point. Once you’ve got the three or four bolts (depending on box model and type) tightened up nicely, use an adjustable wrench on the pitman arm nut and make sure it’s good and snug. You don’t want the pitman arm rocking on the sector shaft splines. Finally, if you’ve got a helper, pop the hood and have somebody saw the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the steering shaft that connects the column with the steering box. You don’t want to see any excessive play in the rag joint(s) or movement at the bushing column. These tasks only take a couple minutes to perform but steering isn’t one of those places we’re apt to throw caution to the wind, so it’s time well spent on a vehicle if you don’t know the history on it.
Visually Inspecting 4x4 Steering Linkage Condition
The steering linkage should be checked to make sure there’s no excessive wobble or slop.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Like the under-hood steering shaft check, a great way to quickly visually inspect the steering linkage of a 4x4 is to have a helper saw the steering wheel back and forth while you inspect the tie-rod ends, drag link ends, and other major components as they are actuated back and forth. Missing cotter pins, obviously loose tie-rod end bolts, and loose adjustment sleeves and/or collars should all get your attention and warrant further inspection. You don’t want the linkage to be easily spun by hand or be there any major movement of the tie-rod ends inside their tapered seats in the pitman arm, steering knuckles, tie-rod or drag links, or (if applicable) idlers. If you do see any major movement in these components it’s probably best to call in the trailer or tow truck until repairs can be made to make the vehicle truly safe to drive.
Verify The Transfer Case Is In Two-Wheel Drive
Only some 4x4 transfer cases allow driving on hard surfaces without damage to internal components, so make sure you verify the transfer case is in two-wheel drive (if applicable) before hitting the road.
With the exception of certain kinds of transfer cases that are designed to allow full-time four-wheel-drive operation on hard road surfaces, you can actually do moderate to severe damage to a transfer case, driveshafts, or even axle components by operating on hard-packed, no-slip surfaces in four-wheel drive. Without any means of providing differentiating slip between the front and rear tires, operating a regular part-time 4x4 transfer case on hard packed surfaces can cause binding and excessive wear on the components. It’s always best to only use High- or Low-Range four-wheel drive in a part-time transfer case when operating on surfaces that allow some slip between the front and rear tires. That’s why it’s important to verify the transfer case of the vehicle you’re purchasing is truly in two-wheel drive (if applicable) before hitting the highway. If you’re unsure of the transfer case shift pattern and the vehicle has locking front hubs, the easiest way to verify you’re in two-wheel drive is to crawl under and try to spin the front driveshaft. If the hubs are unlocked and the transfer case is in two-wheel drive, the shaft should freely spin. The surest way to verify with a vehicle that doesn’t have locking hubs is the jack the front off the ground and spin the shaft to see if the front shaft spins independently of the rear, but in a pinch you could always just find a little dirt and if safe and the vehicle has enough power to gently break the rear tires loose, see if by throttle or other means you can get the rear tires to spin independently of the front.
Testing Front Wheel Bearings and Ball Joints
Excessive hub or ball joint play can be dangerous, so if it is present and you can’t adjust it away, consider having the vehicle towed to your shop or home rather than driving it.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Another common wear point of many 4x4 models, especially those with larger-than-stock tires is at the hubs or unit bearing assemblies as well as the ball joints or kingpins at the steering knuckles. To check you’ll ideally have the front wheel and tire jacked up off the ground. Then, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire, wiggle it by simultaneously pushing and pulling with opposite hands to see if you can initiate any wobble of the wheel/tire assembly. If you didn’t bring a small bottle jack or other means to lift a tire off the ground, from the side of the vehicle you can forcefully shove against the top of the front tire repeatedly to see if you feel any clunking or potential movement. You’ll most often feel it if it’s present. If you do get some wobbling, inspect further to see if the movement is just at the axle hub or unit bearing assembly or if the wheel and tire is moving along with the whole steering knuckle due to bad ball joints or worn kingpin bushings. If the vehicle has adjustable bearings like many older models with locking hubs or drive flanges, it may be possible to dive into the hub assembly and tighten the bearing preload, as long as the bearings, races, and spindles are still in decent shape. If it’s a worn unit bearing, then the only safe repair is a rebuild or replacement. Similarly, if you see that the ball joints or kingpins are the culprit you may want to think twice about calling in a tow truck or a buddy with a trailer rather than rolling the dice on a drive home that may have some uncertainty of success.
Fuel Leaks, Bad Lines, Sediment and Rust In Your Fuel
Rusty fuel tanks are common so check the condition of the fuel filters, fittings, and hoses.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Begin by checking the condition of the fuel lines to make sure they’re not totally dry-rotted, brittle, or broken and that there aren’t any telltale fuel leaks you can see or smell. Many older 4x4s with steel tanks will probably have a fair bit of rust and sediment depending on the duration and method of storage to which the vehicle was subjected. The fuel may also be rank and/or contaminated. If you pop the fuel cap and smell something akin to sweet varnish then the fuel has gone bad and likely won’t burn very well in the engine. It may also varnish or gum up the carb or injectors. If rank fuel is your only problem, the best method is to drain out as much as you can or at least add as much fresh fuel into the mix as possible, along with a bottle or two of your favorite fuel stabilizers. However, if rust and other sediment is in the tank then it will most likely overwhelm the fuel filter(s) quickly. For low-pressure carbureted systems you can generally get by with swapping out cheap clear plastic or metal canister fuel filters. Just drive easy and when the engine starts to fall on its face, pull over and swap in a new fuel filter. That’ll at least get you home until you can properly flush and clean the fuel system. Don’t forget to inspect the mesh or sintered bronze screen at the carb inlet, which will almost always be choked with whatever makes its way past your upstream fuel filters. Fuel-injected systems are a bit more particular when it comes to fuel quality and particulate size. For our money we’d weigh a tow bill or trailer rental against the potential cost of many expensive injection filters and possibly an injector cleaning from running fouled or contaminated fuel.
Driveshafts And U-Joints
Lifted 4x4s are often more susceptible to driveshaft and U-joint wear and damage.
Photo: Christian Hazel
It’s basic logic, but any 4x4 should have two driveshafts; a front and a rear. For certain models like Chevy or Dodge trucks with a NP203 transfer case, 1970s full-size Jeep SUVs and pickups and some CJs with the Quadra-Trac transfer case, and smattering of others equipped with various full-time-only transfer case systems, a missing driveshaft may prove more than an inconvenience since many of these were not designed to operate in two-wheel drive. Unless they were modified with an aftermarket part-time kit, running them in two-wheel drive or without a front driveshaft can actually cause premature wear and ultimate failure of the internal differential that splits power between the front and rear shafts, so if you’re unsure on what’s inside a full-time transfer case and it’s missing a driveshaft it’s probably best to put it on a trailer until you can investigate further. But assuming the driveshafts are all there and/or the transfer case is part time, a quick driveshaft and U-joint check that may be performed on level ground with the E-brake on and the wheels chocked is to set the vehicle’s transmission in Neutral to remove any pressure on the driveshafts. Then, crawl under and grab the yoke with one hand and the driveshaft with the other, trying to twist them repeatedly in opposite directions while watching the U-joint. If you see any noticeable movement between the U-joint trunnion crosses and caps then that U-joint needs replacement. You can check each side of the driveshaft this way, as well as double-cardan “CV” joints if so equipped. A little play is probably gonna get you home, but if there’s major movement within the joint then we’d recommend replacing it before driving any long distance or at speed.
Belts and Fan Clutch
Missing, cracked, or misaligned belts, a worn or wobbly fan clutch, or bad water pump bearings can be easily identified with a quick check under the hood.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Many of the old 4x4s we gravitate towards are being offered at a screaming deal. Often times, part of that low price stems from the previous owner’s apathetic maintenance and general care. First, give the coolant lines and hoses a squeeze and twist to make sure they’re not super brittle or broken. Do the same with any vacuum or heater hose within easy reach. We always cast an eyeball or two over the belts to check for any that may be missing, cracked, or frayed. Missing belts can often indicate a seized or non-functioning accessory so if the component doesn’t spin by hand that’s your tell-tale sign why the belt is off. It’s also a good idea on a vehicle with a manual fan to grab the fan blade and give a hearty wiggle to see if there’s any play at the water pump bearing, slight or otherwise. You want to do this test with the engine off unless you’re looking to trade your fingers for a pirate hook. Another quick test if the mechanical fan has a clutch is to see if the blade spins (with some resistance but smoothly) or if there’s any gritty feeling that may indicate the clutch has gone bad.
Over- or Under-Charging Electrical System
Melted or burned wires, especially to or from the alternator and battery, are a sign that it’s best not to drive the vehicle until a further examination of the charging system can be performed.
Photo: Christian Hazel
If the vehicle you’re looking to purchase hasn’t run in several years, one of the last things you want to do is toss a fresh battery in the tray and see if it’ll fire up. Aside from dry cylinder walls, questionable lubrication, and other factors that should be addressed after long-time vehicular hibernation, the electrical system can and often does suffer negatively. First and foremost, if there’s an ammeter in the dash, we’d strongly suggest taking the time to disconnect the terminals from the back of the gauge and just connecting the leads together with a small bolt or machine screw and then safely taping it off. Ammeters can and do go bad and the sudden increase in resistance from a bad ammeter can be enough to help fry an electrical system within a few quick seconds. It happened to us on a ‘78 Cherokee Chief we were purchasing and was a total facepalm moment that resulted in the need to completely rewire the vehicle from under the dash up to the headlights and everything in between. You’ll also want to check for any existing sign of burned or melted wires, especially those coming to or from the alternator and/or battery. Give the fuses a quick look to see if any are popped and if so, investigate those circuits a bit further before feeding power into the system. Finally, if all looks good and you’re ready to fire up the engine it’s a good idea to have a multimeter handy to check the voltage. You’ll want to see something around 14.4 volts from a properly functioning charging system. Some wiggle room above or below that number is acceptable, but you’re just looking to make sure that the charging systems is putting out more voltage than the battery itself to indicate it’s charging and you’re also verifying the voltage regulator hasn’t gone bad and the system is overcharging and sending too much voltage through your charging system, which will burn up components in the ignition and other systems in short order.
Suspension Bushings, Mounts And No-Nos
This broken center pin on the driver-side front spring snapped due to the increased leverage exerted using a front lift block.
Photo: Christian Hazel
When it comes to the suspension, you’re mostly going to be relying on what you see and the laws of common sense. Look at all the shackle and spring mounts on a leaf-sprung suspension or the link mounts on a coil-sprung suspension. You’re looking for obvious signs of cracking, bent components, or extremely damaged or missing bushing material. Even substantially worn suspensions are okay to drive on at safe speeds but you don’t want to go cornering like you’re at LeMans. Also, if equipped, look at the track bar bracket(s) and linkages to see if there are any cracks present. Most often you’ll find torn or cracked track bar brackets at the rear axle on coil sprung vehicles, so pay close attention to that area. One major red flag area on older lifted leaf-sprung vehicles is the use of front lift blocks. Due to the added leverage that they impart, especially during turning and braking, front lift blocks are a great way to virtually omit any margin of safety. This vintage Jeep J-2000 pickup had lift blocks in the front suspension, so we didn’t even bother trying to drive the vehicle home and instead loaded it on our trailer. Once home and we went to remove the lift blocks we found not only a cracked leaf spring plate and bent leaf spring U-bolts, but the center pin that holds the spring pack together and locates the main leaf with respect to the axle had snapped. This vehicle was potentially one good pothole away from a catastrophic failure.
Safe Tire Tread, Pressure, and Sidewalls
Severely worn, cupped, dry-rotted, damaged, or under-inflated tires are big red flags if you’re planning on driving any long distance or higher speeds.
Photo: Christian Hazel
Especially true with a vehicle that’s been sitting for years or even decades, pay close attention not only to the tire pressure, but the condition of the tread, sidewalls, and rubber before you go blasting home at freeway speeds. As for pressure, don’t automatically assume the correct tire pressure is the same as what’s listed on the tire sidewall. These are max pressure ratings, which for many applications exceed the vehicle’s recommended pressure. On a new, fresh set of tires you really won’t cause any issues other than crowning of the tread surface and premature wear of the center of the tire tread blocks by running overpressure, but with older potentially weakened or rotted tires the additional pressure adds a further risk of failure. A max of 30-psi for most ½-ton vintage 4x4s is a good ballpark tire pressure to start off with. You’ll also want to check the sidewalls and tread for severe cracking or dry rotting that could potentially indicate a propensity for the tire to delaminate. That’s a situation in which the vulcanization that bonds the tread cap to the tire carcass fails, allowing the tire to virtually fall apart as you’re driving. Severely dry-rotted tires are always a roll of the dice, especially at higher road speeds, and in our opinion not worth the risk of driving on. And naturally, you’ll want to give the sidewalls on both outer and inner sides a visual inspection to ensure there’s no gashes or major chunks missing that could increase the potential for failure. Finally, look at the tread for major signs of cupping or uneven wear that may indicate bent suspension components or improper operation in the vehicle’s past. We once purchased a vintage M-170 military ambulance Jeep and since it was only 15 or so miles from home we decided to flat-tow it on its antique Norseman tires. In short, the Norsemans were in such poor condition with cupping, dry-rot, and out-of-roundness that despite being aired to the appropriate pressure they caused the Jeep to bounce, flop, and death wobble behind the tow rig so badly the front tires were literally coming a foot or more unsafely off the ground. We ultimately had to drop speed down to 25 mph to get the darned thing home without inducing violent death wobble, but with nothing more than some fresh tires it tracked behind the tow rig like a dream.
Brakes
When checking the brake system look not only at the wheel side but pop the master cylinder to make sure there’s fluid and no telltale signs of contamination or rust.
Photo: Christian Hazel
For starters, don’t automatically assume the brake system is functional. Many older brake systems are susceptible to rusting within the system or leaking of fluid from rotten seals or corroded fittings. You first want to pop the master cylinder open to check fluid level and look for any major chunks of rust or contaminants. If the fluid looks okay, then inspect the discs if so equipped and look for cracks or major grooves in the rotors that would indicate severely worn or missing friction material on the pads. If equipped with drums, first inspect for any signs of oil or fluid contamination that may inhibit stopping. There’s nothing worse for a drum brake than a leaking axle seal coating the shoes with 90W lube. If you brought a jack and have the time it may be a good idea, especially on a four-wheel-drum vehicle, to give each wheel and tire a spin while checking shoe engagement. A brake adjustment tool or even a simple flathead screwdriver can be used to adjust the drums so that the shoes are just barely biting as you rotate the tire by hand. A four-wheel-drum brake system will stop way better than you may expect, providing it’s in good shape and adjusted properly.
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