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Eunsuk Hur

    Eunsuk Hur

    • Eunsuk Hur is a lecturer, researcher, creative director, and designer whose work is pushing the boundaries of fashion... moreedit
    Idea generation is often considered the biggest influence on both the value creation and sustainability of a product–service system. Although several researchers have put forward sustainable innovation tools, there has been limited... more
    Idea generation is often considered the biggest influence on both the value creation and sustainability of a product–service system. Although several researchers have put forward sustainable innovation tools, there has been limited research into potential tools that can support the ideation stage for future sustainable fashion professionals. In this study, we aim to address this gap by (1) critically examining the management control systems that support the ideation phase and how different types of tools assist sustainability innovation, (2) investigating the potential value of co-creation in the ideation phase, and (3) evaluating a sustainable fashion toolkit designed for use in co-creation workshops. The proposed application of the toolkit was tested with designers, marketers, and entrepreneurs in several co-creation workshops (n = 147) that examined the users’ experiences and the toolkit’s usefulness using task analysis. In-depth interviews with industry professionals and educato...
    This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users... more
    This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users are encouraged to explore sustainability as a way of thinking at the early stages of the fashion design development process. We explain the rationale behind the ideation toolkit, its structure and demonstrate how to apply the toolkit to fashion design through a case study. Finally, we discuss both opportunities and challenges of co-designing the fashion system and its implementation in sustainable fashion and textile design education.
    Traditional department stores have been struggling to attract customers for several years. Many retail stores have closed in recent years, even before the COVID-19 pandemic. The reinvention of in-store shopping value and experience is... more
    Traditional department stores have been struggling to attract customers for several years. Many retail stores have closed in recent years, even before the COVID-19 pandemic. The reinvention of in-store shopping value and experience is imperative to attract customers and reinvigorate retail business. The purpose of this study was to discover which in-store components can improve customer experiences and loyalty while also identifying dissatisfaction issues in consumer experiences in department stores. The data was collected from two consumer groups—luxury department store (Selfridges) customers and mid-market department store (Debenhams) customers—to identify the types of value and experiences they seek most often. The findings showed that to enhance their store patronage, Debenhams should reposition their brand image in a way that allows customers to connect with their self-image and lifestyle by improving efficiency and convenience and prioritizing the utilitarian and social value types. By contrast, Selfridges should enhance their store atmosphere, visual merchandising and sensory experiences by maximizing slow retailing experiences and emphasizing the aspirational self-concept image for symbolic and hedonic value. This research uncovered the existence of numerous overlapping value dimensions, each of which contributed to the enhancement of the others. Several young customers expressed their support for ecologically responsible, cost-effective second-hand luxury products. Instead of focusing merely on conventional value dimensions, department retailers should determine how environmental and ethical objectives can be fulfilled. This study explained how department stores can craft their in-store environments to appeal to their customers’ preferred value types to ensure success in a competitive market.
    There is increasing pressure to consider sustainability in fashion design from consumers, industry and educators. Although awareness has grown significantly in the last decade, there are various challenges for linking sustainable... more
    There is increasing pressure to consider sustainability in fashion design from consumers, industry and educators. Although awareness has grown significantly in the last decade, there are various challenges for linking sustainable production and consumption. Tools to support sustainable design practices exist in some disciplines; however, only a few tools exist to support fashion design. Furthermore, there is a lack of enabling tools which support designers to engage with diverse social actors to encourage sustainable fashion as a process of co-design. The purpose of this study was to investigate and develop an effective enabling design system and tool to support fashion designers and other users in considering production and consumption. In order to achieve this, Soft Systems Methodology (SSM) was selected. When initially approaching the problem, the results of two online surveys identified designers’ and general public groups’ previous attitudes, experiences and challenges towards ...
    패션 산업에 관련한 생산과 소비 과정에서 일어나는 환경과 사회적인 문제들이 점차 심화되면서 지속 가능한 패션 디자인의 중요성이 꾸준히 증가하고 있다. 2013년 덴마크 패션 협회에 따르면, 패션과 텍스타일은 세계에서 두 번째로 오염이 많은 산업으로 인식되고 있으며, 제품이 생산되고, 사용 그리고 폐기되는 제품의 라이프 사이클 전 과정에서 상당히 많은 환경 문제와 사회적 이슈들이 야기되고 있다. 기존에 획일화된 디자인... more
    패션 산업에 관련한 생산과 소비 과정에서 일어나는 환경과 사회적인 문제들이 점차 심화되면서 지속 가능한 패션 디자인의 중요성이 꾸준히 증가하고 있다. 2013년 덴마크 패션 협회에 따르면, 패션과 텍스타일은 세계에서 두 번째로 오염이 많은 산업으로 인식되고 있으며, 제품이 생산되고, 사용 그리고 폐기되는 제품의 라이프 사이클 전 과정에서 상당히 많은 환경 문제와 사회적 이슈들이 야기되고 있다. 기존에 획일화된 디자인 접근방식으로 지속 가능한 디자인의 목표를 실행하고 그 문제를 다루기에는 근본적으로 많은 어려움이 따를 수 있다. 종래의 전형적인 디자인에서는 주로 겉으로 보여지는 부분들, 즉 미적인 요소를 강조하여 표현하는 방식이거나, 혹인 이윤을 목적으로 하는 상업적인 디자인이 중요시 되는 경향이 강했으며, 환경과 사회를 생각하는 지속 가능한 디자인은 디자인 프로세스에서 주로 고려되지 않는 경향이 강해왔다. 결국, 지속가능성에 대한 방안은 디자이너 개인적인 관심에 따라 검토의 대상이 될 수도 있으나, 디자인 영역에서 가장 중요한 결정적인 요인을 작용해오지는 않아 왔다. 현재 패션 산업은 소비자들 사이에서 패션의 가치 사슬은 이미 파괴되었으며, 패션은 쉽게 입고 버려지는 소비재로 전락하였으며, 소비자들은 자신들의 옷이 어떻게 그리고 어디서 만들어졌는지 에 대한 지식과 관심이 거의 없다. 기존의 접근 방식으로는 지속 가능한 디자인을 장려하기에는 많이 역 부족해 보이며, 새로운 디자인 프로세스가 시급한 실정이다. 본 연구는 텍스타일 디자인의 생산과 패션이 소비되는 과정에서, 일반 소비자가 디자인 과정에 참여를 통하여 지속 가능한 디자인의 가능성을 연구 하였다. 또한 지속 가능한 디자인과 참여디자인의 개념을 이해하고, 지속 가능한 패션과 텍스타일 디자인의 한계를 극복할 수 있는 대안적 방법을 고찰 하였다.연구방법으로 소규모 예비 연구 (Pilot study)를 시행 후, 2009년과 2010년에 걸쳐 대규모 워크숍과 초대 및 기획 전시회를 영국텐트 런던 (2009...
    The sharing economy business model has gained attention as a new, alternative pathway to promote sustainable consumption through sharing, renting and swapping used products. Nevertheless, there is still insufficient research available to... more
    The sharing economy business model has gained attention as a new, alternative pathway to promote sustainable consumption through sharing, renting and swapping used products. Nevertheless, there is still insufficient research available to understand the mechanisms of different types of sharing economy business models within the realm of fashion enterprise. This study aims to provide three, empirical business case studies that investigate how fashion companies utilise clothing sharing services in South Korea. These three case studies were conducted in order to identify each organisation’s sharing economy business model by evaluating their value propositions, target market segments, revenue mechanisms and marketing mix strategies. Data was collected by observing each organisation via their website and social media, as well as by conducting interviews with each company. The findings will be discussed in relation to use-oriented product-service systems (PSSs), according to collaborative ...
    Sustainability in fashion and textile design is growing in importance due to environmental and social issues related to both production and consumption processes in the fashion industry. In 2013, the Danish Fashion Institute (DAFI)... more
    Sustainability in fashion and textile design is growing in importance due to environmental and social issues related to both production and consumption processes in the fashion industry. In 2013, the Danish Fashion Institute (DAFI) reported that fashion is the world’s second most polluting industry (cited in European commission, 2015), where significant environmental footprints and social issues occur at every stage of the product lifecycle (Defra, 2008) . There are direct and indirect environmental and social impacts associated with the production, use, reuse, resilience and sustainable action surrounding the system of fashion production and consumption (Defra, 2008) . Although these impacts arise at every stage of the product life cycle, from material exaction to the final sale of the product, it has been argued that the most significant environmental impacts of clothes are commonly associated with consumer use and the after-purchase phase (Fletcher, 2008) . The popular phenomenon...
    Sustainability is one of the key challenges facing the fashion industry due to the complexity of the environmental and social issues associated with whole product life cycle, complex supply chain systems, as well as human consumption and... more
    Sustainability is one of the key challenges facing the fashion industry due to the complexity of the environmental and social issues associated with whole product life cycle, complex supply chain systems, as well as human consumption and consumer behaviour. Although awareness of the issue has grown significantly in the last decade, the question of how to integrate the concept of sustainability into design practice still remains. It has been argued that complex design problems and the transition towards sustainable design require radical social innovation, enabling a system that engages with diverse social actors facilitating discussion as a process of social learning. This concept of co-design represents a new paradigm for fashion and textile design, involving participatory activity and consumption encouraging action towards social change. However, the adoption of co-design for sustainable fashion is still in its early stages and there has been limited study into a systemic level of...
    Addressing sustainability issues in fashion businesses is increasingly challenging due to the complexity of sustainability in the fashion industry, where there are various stakeholders involved in the production and consumption process,... more
    Addressing sustainability issues in fashion businesses is increasingly challenging due to the complexity of sustainability in the fashion industry, where there are various stakeholders involved in the production and consumption process, as well as environmental and social impacts that occur at every stage of the clothing lifecycle. Furthermore, the concepts of fashion and sustainability often contradict each other. The nature of fashion is involved inherently on the continuous process of change, while the term ‘sustainable’ commonly implies longevity and is adopted to address sustainable development (SD) of environmental, social and economic growth. Indeed, the concepts of fashion and sustainability can be difficult to merge as there are various challenges and barriers to addressing sustainability in the activities of the fashion business. Over the last few years, various tools have been developed to support sustainable design practices in order to evaluate the existing environmenta...
    Addressing sustainability issues in fashion businesses is increasingly challenging due to the complexity of sustainability in the fashion industry, where there are various stakeholders involved in the production and consumption process,... more
    Addressing sustainability issues in fashion businesses is increasingly challenging due to the complexity of sustainability in the fashion industry, where there are various stakeholders involved in the production and consumption process, as well as environmental and social impacts that occur at every stage of the clothing lifecycle. Furthermore, the concepts of fashion and sustainability often contradict each other. The nature of fashion is involved inherently on the continuous process of change, while the term ‘sustainable’ commonly implies longevity and is adopted to address sustainable development (SD) of environmental, social and economic growth. Indeed, the concepts of fashion and sustainability can be difficult to merge as there are various challenges and barriers to addressing sustainability in the activities of the fashion business. Over the last few years, various tools have been developed to support sustainable design practices in order to evaluate the existing environmenta...
    This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users... more
    This paper explores the potential for co-design to link sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. We review relevant research and perspectives and propose a co-design platform and an ideation toolkit in which users are encouraged to explore sustainability as a way of thinking at the early stages of the fashion design development process. We explain the rationale behind the ideation toolkit, its structure and demonstrate how to apply the toolkit to fashion design through a case study. Finally, we discuss both opportunities and challenges of co-designing the fashion system and its implementation in sustainable fashion and textile design education.
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or... more
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or positive consumer attitudes, motivations, and values behind secondhand clothing consumption. Therefore, the aim of this study is to investigate the perceived risks and barriers to utilizing secondhand clothing and to identify the enabling and disabling factors that influence its consumption. Two empirical semiqualitative studies were carried out among secondhand clothing consumers (n=134) and non-secondhand clothing consumers (n=138) in the UK to investigate their attitudes, values, and perceptions of risk regarding secondhand clothing consumption. The study incorporated a qualitative means-end value model with a quantitative research technique to construct hierarchical value maps. The results show that consumer perceptions of secondhand fashion produc...
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or... more
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or positive consumer attitudes, motivations, and values behind secondhand clothing consumption. Therefore, the aim of this study is to investigate the perceived risks and barriers to utilizing secondhand clothing and to identify the enabling and disabling factors that influence its consumption. Two empirical semiqualitative studies were carried out among secondhand clothing consumers (n=134) and non-secondhand clothing consumers (n=138) in the UK to investigate their attitudes, values, and perceptions of risk regarding secondhand clothing consumption. The study incorporated a qualitative means-end value model with a quantitative research technique to construct hierarchical value maps. The results show that consumer perceptions of secondhand fashion produc...
    The purpose of this research was to identify perceptions and attitudes toward sustainable fashion from personnel involved in fashion design and to uncover the challenges in implementing sustainable design practices. Data were gathered... more
    The purpose of this research was to identify perceptions and attitudes toward sustainable fashion from personnel involved in fashion design and to uncover the challenges in implementing sustainable design practices. Data were gathered through qualitative open-ended questions in five interviews, and 50 fashion designers were selected as research subjects for a survey. The major findings of the research show that there are internal (personal and organisational) and external challenges to incorporating sustainability into the fashion design process. Internal challenges consist of the lack of consensus and knowledge regarding sustainable design, lack of design-led approaches implementing
    sustainability in fashion and perceived trade-offs with other design criteria, such as aesthetic styles, costs, and fashion trends. External challenges include the complexity of sustainability issues, perceived insufficient consumer demand, attitudes and behaviour gaps in consumer purchasing decisions on sustainable collection ranges and insufficient incentives or values for businesses to implement sustainable design strategies.
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or... more
    In recent years, the circular economy of alternative consumption models for secondhand goods has become a subject of prominence. However, very little research has been carried out to obtain an in-depth understanding of the negative or positive consumer attitudes, motivations, and values behind secondhand clothing consumption. Therefore, the aim of this study is to investigate the perceived risks and barriers to utilizing secondhand clothing and to identify the enabling and disabling factors that influence its consumption. Two empirical semiqualitative studies were carried out among secondhand clothing consumers (n=134) and non-secondhand clothing consumers (n=138) in the UK to investigate their attitudes, values, and perceptions of risk regarding secondhand clothing consumption. The study incorporated a qualitative means-end value model with a quantitative research technique to construct hierarchical value maps. The results show that consumer perceptions of secondhand fashion products and services differ significantly. The five main values identified among secondhand clothing consumers were: economic, self-expressive, hedonic, environmental, and social contribution values. Non-secondhand clothing consumers exhibited concerns about used clothing consumption due to perceived poor product quality and cleanliness, limitations in the degree of possible self-enhancement and expressibility of self-identity, and a perceived social image of the clothes as low-class and having low social acceptance. The study's findings concerning secondhand clothing consumption values held by the market and consumers' perceived risk dimensions can assist retailers and marketers to create a more tailored retailing and promotional strategy.